Science museums and the zoo

San Francisco has two science museums of genuine international standing, and both have moved or been rebuilt since most published accounts of them were written. The Exploratorium left the Palace of Fine Arts in 2013 and is now on the Embarcadero. The California Academy of Sciences demolished its old building and reopened in Golden Gate Park in 2008 under a roof planted with grass.

The zoo is a more complicated recommendation than it used to be, and the reasons are set out plainly below rather than glossed over.

The Exploratorium — at Pier 15, not the Palace of Fine Arts

This is the correction worth making first, because it is the most repeated error about the place. The Exploratorium moved to Piers 15 and 17 on the Embarcadero in April 2013. It spent its first forty-four years inside the Palace of Fine Arts in the Marina district, which is where guidebooks, listings and older accounts still place it — and the Palace is a good two miles from where the museum actually is.

It was founded in 1969 by Frank Oppenheimer, a physicist and the younger brother of J. Robert Oppenheimer, and it effectively invented the hands-on science museum. One survey counted around four hundred science centres across forty-three countries established in its image. Anyone who has been to a museum where the exhibits are meant to be pulled, spun and argued with has been in a descendant of this building.

There are over six hundred exhibits on the pier, almost all of them participatory, and the better ones are the ones that cannot be explained in a caption — the room with the sloping floor and crooked walls that defeats any attempt to judge distance, the whispering seats that carry an ordinary voice the length of a gallery, the tanks for making cloud rings, the vast soap films.

Two things to know before arriving:

  • The Tactile Dome is a pitch-black maze crawled through entirely by touch. It is the single most memorable thing in the museum and it is booked separately from general admission, with limited places. Deciding on it at the door usually means missing it.
  • After Dark, on Thursday evenings, opens the museum to adults without children in it. Anyone sceptical about science museums should start there.

The building is worth a glance in its own right: it generates much of its own electricity from a roof of solar panels, heats and cools itself with water drawn from the bay, collects rainwater in cisterns, and was certified LEED Platinum in January 2014 — unusual for a museum of its size, and the sort of thing the Exploratorium rather enjoys explaining.

Details are at exploratorium.edu.

The California Academy of Sciences

In Golden Gate Park, on the Music Concourse, facing the de Young museum across a plaza. The old building was demolished after the 1989 earthquake left it compromised; Renzo Piano designed the replacement, which opened in 2008, and its defining feature is a roof of seven planted hillocks covered in native vegetation, which can be walked on.

Four institutions sit beneath it on one ticket, which is what makes it the best value of any museum in the city:

  • The Steinhart Aquarium — over a thousand species, a living coral reef tank holding some 800,000 litres, a twilight-zone display of deep-reef animals, African penguins and an unusually good collection of eels.
  • The Morrison Planetarium, one of the largest all-digital domes anywhere. Shows need to be reserved, and children under four are not admitted.
  • The Osher Rainforest — four storeys of rainforest inside a glass dome, with birds and butterflies flying free, and Amazonian fish beneath it.
  • The Kimball Natural History Museum, which holds the dioramas and the exhibits on the history and future of life on earth.

Close to sixty thousand animals live in the building altogether. It takes a full day rather than a morning, and on Thursday evenings the Academy runs NightLife for over-21s, which is the same building with a bar in it and no pushchairs.

Being in the park, it combines naturally with the de Young, the Japanese tea garden and the botanical garden — see Golden Gate Park. The aquarium is also covered, alongside the city's other two, under aquariums of San Francisco.

Details are at calacademy.org.

The zoo, and why it comes with a caveat

San Francisco Zoo occupies around forty hectares at the western edge of the city, where Sloat Boulevard meets the ocean — which also means it is frequently the foggiest and coldest place in San Francisco, and a bright afternoon downtown is no guide to conditions there.

It is going through a difficult period, and a recommendation that left this out would not be worth much. A city performance audit was critical of its management and finances. The city's own Animal Control and Welfare Commission has criticised it repeatedly. In 2026 the zoo moved its last two lions out, having concluded after more than a year of trying that an enclosure built in the late 1930s could not be made suitable for them — an assessment that says a good deal about the age of the infrastructure generally. Several habitats are being rebuilt.

The giant panda project is the other thing visitors ask about. A pair was promised following a mayoral visit to Beijing in 2024, and the mayor wrote to donors in May 2026 reaffirming the city's commitment — but the arrangement has not been finalised, there is no timeline, and the funding is not in place. Nothing should be planned around it.

None of which makes the zoo not worth visiting. The primate collection, the lemur forest, the Australian section and the penguin pool are long-standing and good, the grounds are pleasant and easily walked, and for small children it remains a reliable afternoon. But the collection has changed considerably in recent years — the big cats other than snow leopards have gone — so what is actually on show is worth checking at sfzoo.org rather than taken from any published list.

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