The Royal Andalucian School of Equestrian Art

The Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre at Jerez de la Frontera trains riders and horses in classical equitation and puts on a performance called Cómo bailan los caballos andaluces — how the Andalusian horses dance.

The single most useful thing to know is that the performance does not run every day, and the days change with the season. Turning up unplanned is the usual mistake.

Getting the name right

It is the Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre, run since July 2003 by a foundation of the same name under the regional government. Older accounts write "Réal Escuela Andaluz", which contains two errors: Real carries no accent in Spanish, and the adjective must agree with the feminine Escuela, so Andaluza.

The performance, and when it happens

The show is a choreographed display of classical dressage, high school movements and carriage driving, in a covered arena, and it lasts a little over an hour. It starts at noon.

It is not a daily fixture, and the pattern varies through the year: broadly Thursdays all year round, with Tuesdays added from late spring through autumn and Fridays in the busiest months, plus extra dates in high season and in December. Published timetables contradict each other, so the only reliable source is the school's own calendar, and it should be checked before a trip is built around it.

The useful fallback, which older accounts never mention: on days when there is no performance the training sessions can be watched, along with the stables, the harness room and the museums. For anyone interested in the horses rather than the spectacle, this is arguably the better visit, and it is quieter.

One trap: the days shift in May, around the city's Feria del Caballo, so that is precisely the week not to assume the usual schedule.

The palace and the arena

The school occupies the Palacio Recreo de las Cadenas, built between 1861 and 1868 for Julián Pemartín y Laborde, a sherry producer of French descent. It is usually attributed to Charles Garnier, architect of the Paris Opera, though the attribution is disputed and another French architect has been proposed — so it is best stated as an attribution rather than a fact. The house later belonged to the dukes of Abrantes, from whom the state bought it for the school.

The arena where the performance takes place is not part of that: it is modern, designed by José Luis Picardo in 1980, seating around sixteen hundred, with stabling for sixty horses.

The museums

  • The Museo del Enganche, the carriage museum, occupies an early nineteenth-century bodega on the estate — the family name is Pemartín, not "Permartin" as older accounts spell it, and it should not be confused with the separate Palacio Pemartín in the town, which houses the flamenco centre.

    Much of the collection came in 1986 with the purchase of the stables of Pedro Domecq de la Riva: thirty-five horses and nineteen horse-drawn carriages, some dating from the eighteenth century.
  • Salón 1810 is the room used for temporary exhibitions, in the old tack room. Older accounts call it "Bodega 1810", which is not its name.

The horses

The breed is the Pura Raza Española, the Pure Spanish Horse, known in English as the Andalusian. It was recognised as a distinct breed in the fifteenth century and descends from Iberian stock long present on the peninsula. The two names are generally treated as one breed, though the Spanish breeders' association disputes that and reserves "Andalusian" for lesser crossbreds — an argument that has been to court, and one a visitor need not take sides in.

One thing to discount entirely. Older accounts report that the school keeps Przewalski's horses, described as a breed twelve thousand years old and ancestral to the Andalusian. Three separate things are wrong with that. The school does not have them — Jerez does, at the municipal zoo, which is a different institution altogether. Przewalski's horse is not a breed but a distinct wild taxon. And genetic work has established that it is not ancestral to domestic horses at all: the Przewalski's horses alive today descend from horses herded by the Botai people, a line that did not give rise to the modern domestic horse. They have nothing to do with the Andalusian.

Why it is called Royal

The school was founded in 1973, when Álvaro Domecq Romero first staged the performance in Jerez. The state took it over shortly afterwards and bought the Recreo de las Cadenas; the Provincial Council took charge in 1982, with Domecq appointed technical director the following year.

The title came later. In June 1987 King Juan Carlos I accepted the position of honorary president and conferred the style of Royal School, and from that October the king and queen presided over inaugural events from the royal box. So the Real in the name dates from 1987, not from the founding — fourteen years apart. Domecq himself died in November 2025.

Jerez itself

The town is the principal centre of sherry production and gives the wine its name, forming the sherry triangle with El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Most of the large bodegas take visitors, and that is the obvious thing to pair with the school.

The Feria del Caballo, the horse fair, is held in the Parque González Hontoria in the first half of May and has been designated a festival of International Tourist Interest since 1980. It combines carriage and driving competitions and horse judging with the casetas and fairground of an Andalucian feria, and the drink is chilled fino, usually mixed as rebujito.

Jerez has its own airport with direct flights from the United Kingdom, and it is about an hour from Seville and half that from Cadiz. General practicalities for the region are on the Andalucia page.

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