A puppy explores with its mouth and has no sense of danger. Preparing the house and garden before it arrives prevents most accidents, and a settled routine in the first weeks makes house-training and sleep easier for everyone.
Making the house safe
- Cables and chargers are tucked behind furniture or covered; chewing a live cable can kill.
- Small objects such as socks, children's toys, hair ties, coins and batteries are kept off the floor, since swallowed items are a common reason for surgery.
- Bins have secure lids or go inside a cupboard.
- Medicines, cleaning products and laundry capsules are shut away, and handbags kept out of reach.
- Stairs are closed off with a gate while the puppy's joints are developing.
- Rooms that are not puppy-proofed are kept shut, and one easily cleaned area is set aside for the first weeks.
Poisonous foods and substances
- Chocolate, especially dark chocolate and cocoa powder.
- Grapes, raisins, sultanas and currants, including in cakes and mince pies.
- Xylitol, a sweetener found in sugar-free gum, some peanut butters and baked goods.
- Onions, garlic and leeks.
- Ibuprofen, paracetamol and other human medicines.
- Rat and mouse poison, slug pellets and antifreeze.
A puppy that may have eaten any of these needs a vet immediately, without waiting for signs to appear.
The garden
Fences and gates are checked for gaps at ground level; a small puppy passes through a surprisingly narrow space. Ponds are fenced or covered. Sheds and garages containing chemicals, tools and fertiliser are kept shut.
Plants that are poisonous if chewed include daffodil and tulip bulbs, foxglove, yew, laburnum, rhododendron and lily of the valley. Cocoa-shell mulch is toxic, and compost heaps can contain mould that causes seizures.
What to have ready
- A bed in a quiet corner, with washable bedding.
- A crate or playpen, if one is to be used, large enough for the puppy to stand, turn and stretch out.
- Food and water bowls, and a supply of the food the breeder has been using.
- A collar with an identity tag, a lead and a harness.
- Safe chew toys in several textures.
- Poo bags, and an enzymatic cleaner for accidents.
- A secure way to travel: a crate, a carrier or a harness that fastens to a seat belt. The Highway Code requires dogs to be suitably restrained in vehicles.
The first nights
A puppy has never been alone before. A blanket carrying the scent of its mother and litter, a covered warm-water bottle and a bed near the owner for the first nights reduce distress, and the bed can be moved gradually to where the dog is to sleep. Puppies cannot hold their bladders all night and need taking out.
House-training
The puppy is taken to the same spot outdoors on waking, after every meal, after play and at least every hour or two, and rewarded the moment it finishes. Accidents indoors are cleaned up without comment. Punishment teaches a puppy to hide when it needs to go.
Vaccination and going out
Puppies are usually vaccinated at about eight weeks and again two to four weeks later, and are kept off public ground until the vet advises that the course has taken effect. The weeks before that are also the most important period for getting used to the world, so an unvaccinated puppy is carried outdoors to see traffic, people and other sights, and meets healthy, vaccinated dogs at home.
A well-run puppy class that uses reward-based methods helps with both training and socialising.
Chewing and biting
Puppies chew to explore and to ease teething, which lasts until about six months. Offering a toy whenever the puppy mouths hands or furniture, and ending play briefly when it bites hard, teaches it what is allowed.
Legal requirements
A puppy must be microchipped by eight weeks of age, and the new keeper must put their own details on the database. In public it must wear a collar and tag showing the owner's name and address. Advice on sources is given under finding a puppy or rescue dog.