Olmsted's park, which was never finished
The park was inaugurated on 24 May 1876 to a design by Frederick Law Olmsted, who had co-designed Central Park a decade earlier. His scheme was never completed — the financial crisis of the mid-1870s stopped it — and what exists is a partial execution of a plan that intended the carriage road to spiral gently up the mountain so that the walker discovered the view rather than arriving at it.
The surviving Olmsted path, the broad gravel switchback up from the Peel Street steps, is still the best way to come up on foot, and still works exactly as intended.
A note on extent: the park is about two hundred hectares, while the protected heritage site of Mount Royal covers roughly ten square kilometres and takes in the cemeteries, the university campuses and the two further summits in Outremont and Westmount. Accounts giving "a hundred hectares" are describing neither.
The chalet and the lookout
The building at the top with the café inside is the Chalet du Mont-Royal, not "the Chateau" as older accounts call it. It was built in 1932 to Aristide Beaugrand-Champagne's design, as Depression relief work, and the great hall inside hangs large historical canvases of scenes from the city's founding. There is hot chocolate in winter and ice cream in summer, and it is a genuinely welcome place to stand on a cold day.
In front of it is the Belvédère Kondiaronk of 1906, the semicircular stone terrace that gives the view everyone photographs — downtown, the river, and the Monteregian hills beyond on a clear day.
It is named for Kondiaronk, known as Le Rat, a chief of the Petun or Tionontati Huron and the central negotiator of the Great Peace of Montreal of 1701. He died in Montreal during those negotiations and was buried with military honours. He is often loosely called Huron-Wendat, which is a different nation; the lookout carries the name of a diplomat, not a local notable.
The cross, which is not lit
The steel cross on the eastern summit was put up in 1924, stands a little over thirty metres, and was converted to LED lighting in 2009, which allows it to show colours — famously purple on the death of a Pope, between the death and the election of a successor.
It is currently unlit. Structural and electrical works began in September 2026 and are scheduled to run to the spring of 2028, replacing steel and installing a new white-LED system meant to recall the original 1924 illumination. The city expects the cross to be lit again in the autumn of 2027. Anyone coming to Montreal in the meantime should not plan an evening around seeing it.
Beaver Lake, and where the skating actually is
Lac aux Castors is artificial, dug in 1938 on former swampland to a design by Frederick Todd — not by Olmsted, to whom it is sometimes credited. The pavilion beside it was built in the late 1950s, opened in 1961 and refurbished in the mid-2000s, and holds a restaurant and the car park for this side of the mountain.
Skating on the lake itself ended in 2017. There is now a refrigerated outdoor rink beside the pavilion, free to use, with skates for hire — which is more reliable than lake ice ever was, but it is not the lake, and older accounts implying otherwise will disappoint anyone arriving with skates expecting to use them on the water.
What else is up there
- The sculptures from the 1964 Montreal International Sculpture Symposium, the first such event in North America, are still in place in the clearing near Beaver Lake.
- The Tam-Tams still happen on summer Sundays, from around midday until dusk, at the foot of the monument to Sir George-Étienne Cartier on the Park Avenue side — drummers in a loose circle, dancers on the monument steps, and a market of sorts along the path. It is not a city event and has no official schedule.
- Two cemeteries occupy the northern slopes: Notre-Dame-des-Neiges, which is Catholic and the largest in Canada, and Mount Royal Cemetery, which is non-denominational. Both are open to walk in and are quieter than the park.
- Saint Joseph's Oratory stands on the far flank, in Côte-des-Neiges, and the Université de Montréal occupies the slope below it.
- The broadcast tower — a candelabra mast of about a hundred metres belonging to the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation, which older accounts render as "Company". Its height was capped to keep it clear of flight paths.
Getting up
Older accounts say simply to drive up Côte-des-Neiges, which is half right and worth setting out properly.
- By car, the route to the chalet and Beaver Lake is Chemin Remembrance, which runs off Chemin de la Côte-des-Neiges, with paid parking at the pavilion. Camillien-Houde Way, the road climbing from the Plateau side, is the one that has been argued over for years: a five-month trial ban on through-traffic ran in 2018, a permanent closure to cars was announced in 2023, and in September 2025 that was postponed behind unrelated reservoir works. It remains open to vehicles. Remembrance Road was never part of the proposed ban, so the summit will stay reachable by car whatever happens.
- By bus, the 711 climbs from Snowdon station past the Oratory and over the top, descending to Mont-Royal station, which makes a neat traverse of the whole mountain; the 11 runs up from Mont-Royal station year round. Beaver Lake is a stop on both.
- On foot, the Peel Street steps from downtown onto the Olmsted path is the classic ascent and takes well under an hour.
General practicalities for the city are on the Montreal page.