Regular mowing, removing no more than a third of the leaf at a time, does most of the work of keeping a lawn healthy. Feeding and moss control are optional.
Established lawns recover from summer drought without watering, and early autumn is the best time for repairs and sowing.
A lawn needs less work than its reputation suggests. Regular mowing at a sensible height does most of the job; feeding, raking and weed control are optional and depend on how fine a finish is wanted.
Grass grows whenever the temperature is above about 5°C, which in most of Britain means mowing from March to October, weekly at the height of the season. The usual rule is to remove no more than a third of the leaf at one cut. For a general-purpose lawn a height of 2.5 to 4 cm suits summer, raised a little in spring, autumn, shade and dry weather. Cutting very short weakens the grass and lets moss and weeds in.
Short clippings left on the lawn in dry weather return nutrients to the soil. Long or wet clippings smother the grass and are collected for the compost heap, mixed with dry material.
Battery models have largely replaced petrol for small and medium lawns, and are quieter and cleaner. Corded electric mowers are plugged into a socket protected by a residual current device, which cuts the power if the cable is damaged. Push mowers with no motor are adequate for a small lawn.
A half-moon edging iron and long-handled edging shears keep the edges defined. A spring-tine rake removes moss and dead grass, and a garden fork relieves compaction. A strimmer deals with grass the mower cannot reach; eye protection and sturdy footwear are worn when using one.
Feeding is not essential. Where a greener, denser lawn is wanted, a spring or summer lawn fertiliser high in nitrogen is applied from mid spring, and a separate autumn feed, lower in nitrogen and higher in potassium, in September. Spring feeds used late in the year produce soft growth prone to disease.
Moss is a symptom of shade, poor drainage, compacted soil or mowing too short, and returns after treatment unless the cause is dealt with. Raking it out in autumn, spiking compacted areas with a fork and brushing sharp sand into the holes improve conditions for grass.
Daisies, clover, self-heal and other low flowering plants are weeds only by convention, and they feed bees. Individual dandelions and plantains can be dug out with a narrow trowel. Where a lawn weedkiller is used, the label instructions on composting the clippings need to be followed, since residues can damage other plants.
An established lawn does not need watering. Grass goes brown and dormant in a dry summer and greens up again when rain returns. Raising the mower blades, or stopping mowing, helps it through. Only newly sown or newly turfed lawns need regular water, as covered under watering the garden.
Seed is sown in mid spring or, better, early autumn, when the soil is warm and moist. Turf can be laid from autumn to early spring whenever the ground is not frozen. Bare or thin patches are repaired by loosening the surface, scattering seed mixed with a little compost and keeping it moist.
Seed mixtures differ: those containing ryegrass are hard-wearing and suit family lawns, fine fescue mixtures give a closer finish, and shade mixtures tolerate a few hours of sun.
September is the main month for lawn renovation: raking out moss and dead grass, known as scarifying; spiking; an autumn feed; and sowing seed over thin areas. Fallen leaves are raked off before they smother the grass and can be made into leaf mould.
A closely mown, weed-free lawn supports very little wildlife. Mowing less often, tolerating clover and leaving part of the lawn long through summer all help, as described under gardening for wildlife. Artificial turf has no value for wildlife, seals the soil beneath and becomes hot in strong sun.