Keeping more than one cat

Cats do not need the company of other cats, and many only tolerate it. Littermates and kittens adopted together are the pairs most likely to get on.

A new cat is introduced gradually, by scent before sight, and each cat needs its own food, water, tray and resting places, with one extra of each.

Domestic cats descend from a solitary hunter, and unlike dogs they have no built-in need for company of their own kind. Some cats form close bonds with others; many merely tolerate them, and some are unhappy sharing a home at all. A second cat is not a reliable cure for loneliness, and the decision is best made with the resident cat's temperament in mind.

Which cats live well together

The pairs most likely to succeed are littermates or kittens adopted together, which grow up as one social group. Introducing a kitten to a young adult is usually easier than introducing two adults. An elderly or timid cat may be distressed by a boisterous newcomer, and a cat that has always lived alone or has fought with neighbouring cats is a poor candidate for sharing.

All cats in the household need to be neutered, and a newcomer is examined by a vet, vaccinated and treated for parasites before it meets the others.

Friends or flatmates

Cats that belong to the same social group groom each other, sleep touching, rub against each other and greet with tails raised. Cats that simply share a house keep their distance, use different rooms and take turns at favourite spots.

Conflict between cats is often quiet. Signs include staring, one cat blocking doorways, stairs or the litter tray, a cat that spends its time on top of cupboards or under beds, and a cat that waits to eat until the other has left. Urine spraying, over-grooming, cystitis and soiling outside the tray are common results of this kind of stress.

Enough of everything

Competition is reduced by providing each key resource in several separate places, so that no cat has to pass another to reach it. The usual guide is one for each cat plus one extra:

  • feeding places and water bowls, out of sight of each other;
  • litter trays;
  • beds, hiding places and high perches;
  • scratching posts;
  • ways in and out of rooms, and of the house.

A cat flap that reads microchips keeps neighbouring cats out, which removes another source of tension.

Introducing a new cat

  1. A separate room: the newcomer starts in a room of its own with food, water, tray, bed and hiding place, for several days at least.
  2. Scent first: bedding is swapped between the cats, and a cloth rubbed on one cat's cheeks is left for the other to investigate. Each cat is allowed to explore the other's area while it is empty.
  3. Sight without contact: the cats see each other through a mesh screen, a child gate or a door held slightly open, while being fed or played with at a comfortable distance.
  4. Short meetings: once both are relaxed, they share a room for a few minutes under supervision, with escape routes and high places available. The time is lengthened gradually.

Each stage lasts as long as the cats need. Some pairs settle in a week; others take months. Hissing, growling or a stiff, staring posture means the process has gone too fast and is taken back a step. Cats are never left to fight it out, because a bad first encounter can set the relationship for years.

Synthetic pheromone diffusers are sold to ease introductions and may help some households.

When it does not work

Some cats never accept each other. Dividing the house so that each has its own territory and resources can make life tolerable, and a vet can refer the owner to a qualified behaviourist. Where one cat remains fearful or the fighting continues, finding one of them a new home is sometimes the kindest outcome.

Practical considerations

Each additional cat brings its own food, litter, veterinary fees and insurance, and its own share of time. Most landlords and some housing providers limit the number of pets, and cats in a crowded household are more prone to infectious disease and stress-related illness.

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