Getting a second dog

Many dogs enjoy the company of another dog, and two can be easier than one in some respects. A second dog also doubles most of the costs and work, and it is not a cure for problems in the first.

Reasons for and against

A well-matched pair play together, keep each other occupied and can be exercised together. Against that stand a second set of veterinary bills, insurance, food and boarding fees, less room in the car, and the need to train and walk each dog separately some of the time.

A second dog rarely solves separation anxiety, since the distress is usually about the absence of people. Nor does it cure barking, pulling or aggression; a puppy is more likely to copy those habits. Problems in the resident dog are best addressed first.

Is the resident dog suited?

A dog that seeks out others in the park, plays politely and has stayed happily with friends' dogs is a good candidate. One that is fearful, guards food and toys, or is old, in pain or unwell may find a newcomer a burden. An elderly dog can be worn out by a puppy and needs somewhere to retreat.

Choosing the second dog

• Sex: a neutered male with a neutered female is generally the easiest combination. Two females are the pairing most prone to serious, lasting conflict.
• Age: a gap of at least two or three years lets the first dog be fully trained before the second arrives, and avoids two dogs growing old together.
• Size and energy: dogs of similar play style and energy suit each other; a great difference in size carries a risk of accidental injury.
• Not two puppies at once: littermates or puppies of the same age tend to bond with each other more than with people, and are much harder to train. Most trainers and rescue centres advise against it.

Rescue centres will normally arrange for the resident dog to meet a prospective companion before any decision is made.

Introducing them

The first meeting takes place on neutral ground, such as a quiet park, with both dogs on loose leads and a person handling each. Walking them side by side at a distance and letting them close the gap gradually is calmer than a head-on greeting. Relaxed bodies, play bows and sniffing are good signs; stiffness, staring, raised hackles or growling mean more distance and more time are needed.

At home, toys, chews and food bowls are put away before the new dog arrives. For the first weeks:

• the dogs are fed apart, in separate rooms if necessary;
• each has its own bed and a place to be alone;
• they are not left together unsupervised until the relationship is settled;
• high-value chews and toys are given only when the dogs are separated;
• the resident dog's routine and privileges are kept as they were.

Minor grumbles are normal as the dogs work out their relationship. Fights that cause injury, or one dog persistently bullying the other, call for help from a vet and a qualified behaviourist.

Time with each dog

A puppy brought into a home with an adult dog needs walks, training and outings on its own, so that it learns to cope without the older dog and to attend to people. The older dog needs time alone with its owner as well, and rest away from the puppy.

Practical points

Each dog must be microchipped and registered to its keeper, and wear a collar and tag in public. Tenancy agreements, insurance policies and some local rules on public spaces limit the number of dogs a person may keep or walk at once. Guidance on choosing and sourcing a dog is given under choosing a dog and finding a puppy or rescue dog.