Dog Training Devices

Dog training devices are tools, no substitutes. The creativity of trainers and those who supply them with additional tools is never-ending. To the new or casual trainer there appears a dizzying array of devices. Though many are useful, they shouldn't be viewed as substitutes for training knowledge.

Before using any of the tools discussed below, be sure your dog is in good health. Even the gentlest of collars or training regimes can do harm if the dog has a skin sore or twisted dew claw.

Clickers

An excellent attention-getting device, the clicker is a palm-sized, hand-held plastic and metal unit which emits a loud 'click-clack' noise when pressed and released. It can save a lot of wear on the trainers voice and is distinctive and readily audible, even against common background noise.

The trainer can use a clicker to draw the attention of a distracted dog. It's more commonly used, though, as a reward or 'begin' sound when the animal exhibits desired behavior or to start a behavior.

Leashes and Collars

The variety of leashes available is astounding, running the gamut from two-foot control leashes, usually of nylon or leather, to the 30-foot extendable-retractable nylon cord type.

For near work, such as training 'sit', 'stay' (for example, 'don't run after the cat' or 'don't go out the door before me') the two to four foot leash is an excellent tool. The extendable leash is useful only by trainers who want to obey their dog. The human (whether male or female) should always be the 'alpha male' of the pack and the alpha always leads.

Collars come in a variety of buckle, snap, nylon, leather combinations. Provided the snaps and nylon are good quality they can be fully strong enough for even large dogs. They should be adjusted carefully, though, so they don't slip off easily when the dog moves a head toward the ground and away to escape.

This trainer is adamantly opposed to spike collars - which can easily damage a smaller dog and tend to engender fear even in larger ones. Similarly, choke collars are discouraged. Dogs have very strong neck muscles, but a sharp tug on the front of the throat can bruise or even collapse a trachea. Also, too often choke collars are put on backwards (an easy mistake to make), which makes them counter-productive and dangerous.

Vests

Similar to leashes, chest halter leashes and even full vests can help to strengthen the trainers advantage while avoiding excessive pressure on the dog's throat.

The potential downside is that the animal experiences no discomfort from pulling, so this limits training completely to positive re-enforcement. Originally designed to be used with seeing-eye and other aid dogs, the chest-halter can encourage pulling - the opposite of the usual goal.

Nevertheless, for those who need extra control over a strong dog or when regular collars and leashes won't serve they're valuable.

Muzzles

For short-term barking and biting control muzzles may sometimes be helpful or even necessary. The downside to using one is the dog never learns through other means to suppress barking. The muzzle becomes a substitute for the more difficult, long-term solution of obeying 'no-bark' commands.

There are dozens of other dog-related items: no-bark collars, electric fences, chemical sprays, head collars, etc. But these are as much control devices as training tools.

And, of course, there are the training tools that remain perpetual and highly effective favorites: love and respect. Treat your dog as you would a loving companion and it will be much easier to produce desired behavior.

Pros and Cons of Control Tools

Sometimes the distinction between training and control is too easily lost. Using commands and hand gestures, with leashes or treats, to solicit desired behavior is training. Using choke or 'no-bark' collars, electronic fences and similar devices is for control.

Control isn't necessarily a bad thing. Dogs naturally have and seek a social hierarchy in which one is the alpha (leader) and in any human-dog pair the human has to take that role. The alternative is property destruction, unsafe conditions for dogs and humans, human frustration and a maladjusted dog.

Choke collars were invented to assist in gaining control. Dogs, like humans, are individuals. Some are naturally more assertive or slower to learn. For ones that don't respond to a normal leather or nylon collar, a metal choke collar can provide extra discouragement from pulling and leaping.

The potential downside is that, used improperly - all too easy to do - they can be counter-productive and even dangerous. Choke collars fit only one way and when fitted should allow from one to three fingers gap between the neck and the collar. Three for larger dogs, one for smaller. Generally a collar two inches longer than the neck circumference will do.

Used improperly, though, choke collars can pinch the skin - producing hot spots that scratching will make worse. They can also accidentally compress the trachea. An instantaneous pull-and-release isn't harmful, though by design produces discomfort, but for dogs that tend to pull against the leash this movement is difficult to do. Generally not recommended, especially for smaller dogs.

Prong collars are less dangerous than they appear, but - in this trainer's view - have almost no positive characteristics. The only good aspect of the design is their limited diameter - they can only close down so far. However, an animal with such a strong tendency to pull that prongs look attractive needs more than a quick fix consisting of choking and poking. That animal needs committed attention and behavior modification training.

Halter collars, which wrap around the neck and the muzzle, but don't prevent panting or impair drinking can give extra control. The downside is, since they don't restrict biting or grasping, half their potential value is gone. An ordinary leash and collar, or even a chest halter might be preferable.

'No-bark' collars can sometimes help with those animals that persist in barking long after the initial impetus is gone. Barking is a natural response to potential threats and is also used to attract attention when one becomes separated from the pack. But, for reasons not well understood, some individuals continue barking for long periods or at the slightest provocation.

Electronic collars that discourage barking come in two types: noise and shock. Noise collars produce a short, unpleasant sound that distracts and tends to discourage continued barking.

Shock collars generate a short but painful electric shock that can be repeated and lengthy during prolonged or persistent barking. Objective tests of their effectiveness show varied results, though. As with prong collars, any dog needing one would benefit more from careful, professional help.

Sometimes quick fixes are tempting and useful... until they become substitutes for more beneficial (both to trainer and dog) long-term training. Taking the time to learn to get your dog's attention and compliance without excessive reliance on control devices is preferred. The results are saner trainers and happier dogs.