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Things to See in Malaga

Málaga is a very popular destination. It might be the sailing and golf facilities but it probably has more to do with the mild climate all year round. However, there are also architectural and art spots, such as the Alcazaba or the cathedral, for the cultural minded

Malaga Cathedral

Europe has many awe-inspiring cathedrals. But throughout most of the continent there is a kind of sameness to their designs. That shouldn't be surprising since architects readily borrowed ideas from one another, and building technology was limited in the periods they were built, from about 1200-1800AD. But it is possible to see some truly different styles, particularly in Andalucia, Spain.

One of the clearest examples is the Malaga Cathedral. The official name is: the Cathedral of the Incarnation.

Built between 1528 and 1782 on a site that (like so many in the country) was formerly occupied by a mosque, the Malaga Cathedral isn't merely a church. It is an architectural wonder of the region. Known as La Manquita (the 'one armed woman') because the southernmost of its two towers is unfinished, it is a masterpiece of Renaissance-Baroque style.

That hyphenated phrase is rare, because most churches in the area have a more uniform design. But because of the unique transition enjoyed by Spain during the late 16th to late 18th centuries, the cathedral is a slightly different mix. The highly ornate facade is hard to place in one category or the other. The swirling columns and decorative Rosetta above the entrance are only two examples showing why.

The interior provides many more.

The 17th century choir stalls are made of mahogany and cedar, not unusual materials for the time and location. But their design is a unique blend of late Renaissance/early Baroque that is found in few other cathedrals.

Other examples abound. The cathedral holds 40 carved wooden statues of the saints behind each stall that are a rare accomplishment. Lining the area, these alone could offer an afternoon's delight to an enthusiast of the art.

There are numerous marble sculptures, as well, including ones of the Annunciation and the patron saint of Malaga, sometimes known as the Virgin of Victory. Locals of the period thought her influence was critical in the Reconquest of Spain that drove the Moors from rule. Nearby are the white marble mausoleums of Bishop Lario and the Dominican Bishop Fray Manrique.

Secular figures form part of the 'collection', as well. There are a number of statues known as the Pantheon of the Counts of Buenavista, sculptures honoring many of the patrons of the church down the years of the 15th through 17th centuries.

There are a number of fine paintings as well by masters of the Spanish Baroque, such as Alonso Cano and Claudio Coello. They are hung throughout the thirteen chapels, each of which is unique and dedicated to a different saint or holy event.

During the hot summers of Andalucia the sun's rays are at least partly appreciated for the effect they produce through the stained glass windows. They're of a more recent vintage, having begun in the 19th century and finished in the 1960s. Illuminating the interior with a profusion of color, the result produces a kind of visual hush over the crowd.

The Alcazaba of Malaga

From an Arab word meaning 'fortress', the Alcazaba is no mere castle. Unlike some of the interesting but fairly plain examples in England, this defensive structure is also an architectural marvel.

Situated on one of the many high hills near Malaga in the Andalucian region of Spain, it was constructed over a period of several hundred years. Some of the earliest sections date back to the late 8th century after the Moors first conquered Spain. Parts built on still older Roman foundations are still visible.

But the main effort culminated in the mid-11th century, at the height of Moorish rule. There are two rings of defensive walls and a number of lookout towers around the fortress. Set high on the hill overlooking the port, the Alcazaba provided a secure home down the years for the many governors of the province.

The entrance is through a large gateway now known as Puerta del Cristo (Christ's Door). The name is a much later addition, of course, given that the citadel was built and used by the Muslim Berbers for centuries prior to the Reconquest by Christian Kings.

That long series of events, finalized by Queen Isabella at the end of the 15th century, led to several changes in the Alcazaba. The entrance was converted to a chapel and the Torre del Cristo (Tower of Christ) are two that remain highlights of a visit.

Down the pathway next to the entrance is a series of landscaped gardens and elaborate fountains that provide an oasis from the hot Spanish sun. Strolling through this section, visitors pass the Puerta de las Columnas, Arco del Cristo and Arcos de Granada. Along the way there are several high terraces that provide magnificent views of the town below and the harbor beyond.

One of the sights visible from here, and which can be toured later, is the large 2nd century AD Roman amphitheater. It was discovered only in 1951 and adds an even greater historical perspective to the site. The Archaeological Museum inside the inner perimeter of the Alcazaba has considerable detail on its discovery and history.

One aspect that invariably excites visitors are the private living quarters of the Moorish rulers, called the Cuartos de Granada (Granada Quarters). The ornate pillars in the Maldonado Tower are only one of the awe-inspiring features of an elaborate maze leading to bedrooms once occupied by Spain's Moorish aristocracy. Further on is the Torre de la Armadura Mudejar, featuring a stellar carved wooden ceiling done in the Mudejar style.

Along this labyrinth of hallways beneath traditional Islamic-style arches one can trod the same stone steps that once supported the rulers of Spain before the Reconquest. During that effort in 1487, Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand raised their standard at the Torre del Homenaje (Tribute Tower), on the eastern side of the fortress.

Just in front of the private quarters is the Patio de la Alberca (Courtyard of the Pool). Here there is a restored pavilion offering a cool place to sit and relax while enjoying the delicate scents wafting in from the Patio de los Naranjos (Courtyard of the Orange Trees).