How the floor is arranged, and why
There are no windows and no clocks. The routes to the lifts, the restaurants, the pool and the exit all run across the gaming floor, which is not an accident of planning. Lighting, carpet patterns, sound and the absence of sightlines to the outside all work in the same direction, which is to make leaving require a decision.
The ordering is consistent: slot machines nearest the doors, table games further in, the high-limit room walled off at the back. Cash is converted to chips at the table, and chips do not feel like money, which is the entire purpose of chips.
None of this is sinister and all of it is deliberate. A visitor who notices it is in a much better position than one who does not.
Smoking, which is the real surprise
Smoking is permitted on casino gaming floors in Nevada. There has never been an equivalent of the British ban, and the floors are not notional about it — on a busy evening the air is thick.
Hotel rooms are generally smoke-free and many non-gaming areas are too, but because every route through the building crosses the floor, it is difficult to avoid altogether. Park MGM has been entirely smoke-free since 2020 and is the only resort on the Strip that is. Several others maintain smoke-free sections, and poker rooms usually are.
This matters a great deal more than it sounds for anyone with asthma or a lung condition, and for anyone travelling with small children.
The odds, which are not on display
Every game carries a fixed house edge, set by its rules. It is not luck and it does not even out over time — the opposite. The longer the play continues, the closer the outcome converges on losing that percentage of everything staked. The approximate figures, which differ far more than most people expect:
- Blackjack — around half a per cent, with reasonable rules and correct basic strategy. The best bet on the floor, and only on those conditions; played by instinct it is far worse.
- Baccarat, banker bet — around 1 per cent, and it requires no skill whatever.
- Craps, the pass line — around 1.4 per cent, and lower again when backed with odds.
- Roulette — about 2.7 per cent on a single-zero wheel and about 5.3 per cent on a double-zero wheel. Almost every American table has two zeros, which doubles the house edge for an identical game. Where a single-zero table exists it is worth crossing the floor for.
- Slot machines — typically somewhere between five and fifteen per cent, and generally worse on the Strip than off it. The machine does not disclose which it is, and no amount of play reveals it.
- Keno — above twenty-five per cent, and comfortably the worst bet in the building.
The practical conclusion is narrow but real. The only decisions that alter the arithmetic are which game to play, which table to sit at, and whether to learn basic strategy before sitting down. Everything else — systems, lucky machines, due numbers — is decoration.
Free drinks, comps and the card
Drinks are brought to anyone actively playing at no charge. This is not hospitality; it is the cheapest available method of keeping a player in a seat, and it works. Tipping the server each time is expected.
Every casino group runs a loyalty card and tracks play on it. The rewards are real — rooms, meals, show tickets — but they are calculated from the total amount staked rather than from winning or losing, which means they are a rebate on volume rather than a prize.
Practical points
- Twenty-one is the minimum age both to gamble and to drink, and under-21s may not loiter on a gaming floor even while passing through it. This shapes a family holiday more than expected.
- Table minimums move. The same table costs more on a Saturday night than on a Tuesday morning, and minimums downtown and off-Strip are consistently lower than on the Strip.
- Cash machines on gaming floors charge heavily. Withdrawing elsewhere is substantially cheaper.
- Cash is needed for tipping — dealers, servers, porters, housekeeping.
- Photography on the gaming floor is generally not allowed.
When it stops being enjoyable
Gambling is built to be enjoyable and built to take money, and those two facts are not in tension — they are the business model. For a proportion of people it becomes something considerably more serious than a holiday expense.
The approach that reliably works is to decide the amount before going in and treat it as the price of the evening, in the same category as a theatre ticket, rather than as a stake expected to come back. Credit should stay out of it entirely.
In the United Kingdom the National Gambling Helpline is free and open twenty-four hours a day, every day, on 0808 8020 133, or 0808 8010 320 in Northern Ireland. Neither call appears on an itemised bill.
A note on names
Las Vegas recycles its names, which makes older accounts confusing. The Sahara closed in 2011, reopened as SLS Las Vegas in 2014, and took the Sahara name back in 2019 — so a reference to the old Sahara and the hotel standing on that site now are not describing the same place. The individual resorts are covered under Las Vegas hotels, and Fremont Street covers the older, cheaper casinos downtown.