More Art in Madrid
Convent of the Royal Barefoot Sisters
Barefoot nuns might sound like the premise for a comedy skit, but rest assured these sisters are no joke. The Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales is both a functioning convent and a treasure trove of art.
Founded by the daughter of Charles V in 1559 as a retreat for noblewomen, the nunnery has maintained its commitment to its religious principles for centuries. Tours of the grounds and artifacts housed there began in the last few decades.
Once a royal palace, women of the Spanish aristocracy wandered its hallways in quiet. For over 200 years the grounds, which gradually became a fully recognized and practicing convent, were restricted to outsiders. The occupants within found not only an environment for religious contemplation but also a private art museum.
The buildings themselves are outstanding samples of Renaissance architecture. The orange stone facade is elegant, punctuated by several archways and the doors are splendid examples of the period.
The collection grew gradually as the noblewomen who wished to take up the religious life each brought a 'dowry' to be a 'bride of Christ'.
Today those art treasures are available for viewing by the public. There are paintings by Titian, Zurbarán and Brueghel the Elder along with many others. There are magnificent tapestries hand-woven and based on drawings by Rubens. There is even a marble mausoleum crafted by Leoni, a sculpted sepulchre of Emperatriz María executed by Crescenci and several Mena sculptures.
The Franciscan nuns opened the grounds to the public in 1960 and conduct the tours, which is the only way visitors are permitted to see the collection. Though tours are conducted in Spanish, questions in English are permitted and will be answered in English. However, there is so much that is worthwhile to see that even those not conversant in Spanish will find the tours a delight.
Next door is the Convento de la Encarnación, which is also worth a visit.
Basilica de San Francisco El Grande
The church of San Francisco is one of Madrid's most important buildings and offers a fascinating tour. With a dome larger than that of St. Paul's Cathedral it is an architectural marvel. Filled with paintings and sculpture, it is also an art lover's treat.
Located in an older part of Madrid, the church has an imposing edifice in three sections with neo-classical facades. Inside, visitors can see the imposing 108 feet (33m) dome and the barrel vaulted ceiling. Covered in a dazzling array of frescoes and with extraordinary stained-glass windows, the basilica is one of the most beautiful cathedrals in Europe.
Completed in 1760 under the auspices of Carlos III, the basilica was erected on the site of a Franciscan convent, purportedly founded in 1217 by St. Francis of Assisi. There are seven main doors elaborately carved out of walnut, leading to several chapels filled with art treasures.
Three of them are adjacent to the circular interior, one of which - the San Bernardino de Siena - holds a Goya painting depicting the saint. To the right of that Goya is another painting, a self-portrait of the artist himself.
Though the church was built in the mid-18th century, many of the contents are considerably older like for example, the Gothic choir stalls from Segovia, dating from the 16th century.
Within the chapels are dozens of paintings and sculptures by major and minor masters. Besides Goya, the church houses paintings by Zurbarán, Cano and Maella as well as marble sculptures by Bellver and Benlliure.
The church, though, is not merely an art museum, but a functioning cathedral. Visitors are shown through by a guide and are requested to maintain a respectful silence.
Located in the Plaza de San Francisco el Grande, there is a nearby Metro stop at La Latina or Puerta del Toledo and several buses have stops at or near the church.